Lots of people visit San Francisco. They usually hang around somewhere between Fisherman's Wharf and downtown. A few will wander out as far as the Castro, or the Haight-Ashbury and Alamo Square, as a limited excursion. They all see the tourist-oriented sights and gaze at Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge and think "wow, San Francisco is wonderful." They will share this experience with other people who have visited San Francisco. But they will have no idea what San Francisco is really about, and what it's really like for the people who live there.
This isn't to say that Fisherman's Wharf doesn't have really nice views of the Golden Gate, and a cool bakery, some nifty galleries, and things worth visiting as a tourist - but there's so much more to the city. This page is about those things - the things you won't see as an ordinary tourist, but as a visitor.
Neighborhoods
The Castro and the Haight-Ashbury are the neighborhoods that most tourists are likely to stumble across, but there are many others, and they're all wildly different. If you look around and see a lot of tourists, or diners named after the cable cars, you may not be in a "real" San Francisco neighborhood. By all means, feel free to have fun, but don't imagine this is what the locals do.
The Mission
The Mission is where the hipsters hang out. It's also easy to get to: take BART to 16th and Mission or 24th and Mission. When you arrive, head west a block or two to Valencia Street. You are now in prime hipster territory. At the south end of this strip is Arizmendi Bakery, a worker-owned cooperative; they make good bread and serve pizza by the slice. At 21st Street is Ritual Coffee, serving some of the best espresso drinks in the world. 826 Valencia is a childrens' writing workshop and pirate supply shop. Mission Cheese will give you flights of artisan cheese to go with your wine. There are curiosity shops like Paxton Gate with cute plants and funny rodent skulls.
The Dogpatch
The Dogpatch is the fanciest part of town you've never been to. It's small, but pleasant. Get off at 22nd Street Caltrain or take the T Third trolley line to 22nd Street. (Also, parking is easy to find. Seriously.) Serpentine has a very delicious brunch. Cafe Piccino is cute and serves excellent coffee. Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous is some of the best ice cream around. Rickshaw Bagworks will make you a nice backpack, messenger bag, or iPad case.
Potrero Hill
Potrero Hill is harder to get to on public transit; take the 22 Fillmore, or drive. Parking is easy. (This is not a joke.) The 18th Street corridor has some nice restaurants. Umi has ridiculously good sushi. Goat Hill Pizza has a sourdough crust. Chez Papa is a snazzy little bistro.
Other fun spots
Right near Dolores Park along 18th Street there are three stores: Tartine, a legendary bakery, Delfina, a legendary pizzeria/Italian restaurant, and Bi-Rite, a legendary supermarket. Seriously, a legendary supermarket. Check it out. They have a book. Across the street is the Bi-Rite Creamery. (Take the J-Church. Parking is hell.)
Hayes Valley has a variety of restaurants and high-end shopping. There's a nifty little project at the park with a Ritual Coffee location in a shipping container. The Hayes Valley Farm was set up on top of the rubble of a freeway onramp which collapsed after an earthquake. (Hayes Valley is a little difficult to get to. There is no parking.)
Cole Valley is a cute little neighborhood spot, and easy to get to on the N Judah. There's also some fun stuff nearby in the inner sunset at 9th and Irving.
West Portal has a nice main-street feel. It is easy to get to on the K Ingleside, M Ocean View, or L Taraval streetcar.
Glen Park can be reached via BART and is a cute neighborhood with a small-town feel. Glen Canyon Park is an unexpected canyon lined by eucalyptus, and feels like its own little world.
Noe Valley is a pleasant, sunny part of the city, with lots of pretty Victorian homes. It's popular with families that have kids. Along 24th street you will encounter local stores like Chocolate Covered and the 24th Street Cheese Company. (Walk or take the 48 Quintara from 24th and Mission BART).
The south side of Bernal Heights has a lovely little strip of local businesses. The view from the park at the top is amazing.
Normally you should stay out of the Bayshore, but you might make an exception for Flora Grubb Gardens. It's really cool, and has the atmosphere of San Francisco. Besides the neat plants and funky design (and the bicycles and old cars covered in succulents) they have a Ritual Coffee shop inside. (Parking is not too bad, or take the T Third).
If you're in the Haight-Ashbury, consider heading north across the panhandle and east, to check out Nopa.
Local Lifestyles
Getting Around
San Franciscans frequently get around by bicycle, public transport, and just plain walking. As a visitor, you may not be prepared to bike around, but public transportation and walking are within your reach. If you just take a taxi or drive everywhere, you'll miss a lot of the good stuff - and it seldom gets cold enough to be uncomfortable.
Besides, finding a taxi (or parking spot) is usually pretty obnoxious.
Shopping
You can stop by them if you'd really like, but all the big chain stores along Union Square and in the mall are pretty generic and can be found all over the world. Local businesses, though, cannot be found anywhere else, and contribute greatly to San Francisco's flavor. Look for the SF Made label for items which are manufactured locally.
Food Trucks
San Francisco has a vibrant food truck scene. Look up something like The Creme Brulee Cart or Curry Up Now online and see where they're stopping, or attend Off The Grid so you can sample several food trucks in one place. If you wander around the Mission, you might also bump into the tamale lady.
